Gilley's Urban Cowboy (1980)

Gilley's Club, the Pasadena, Texas honky-tonk where most of Urban Cowboy (1980) is set, was a real place — a 70,000-square-foot bar at 4500 Spencer Highway in the Houston refinery suburb of Pasadena, co-owned from 1971 to 1989 by Mickey Gilley and Sherwood Cryer. It was, before the picture made it world-famous, the largest honky-tonk in the United States. After the picture, it was a destination.

Sherwood Cryer built the place; Mickey Gilley was the name on the marquee

The club opened as Shelly's in 1971; Cryer renamed it Gilley's after partnering with the Pasadena-based country singer Mickey Gilley, who agreed to perform there regularly. Cryer was the building's owner-operator and cultural designer; he installed the mechanical bull, signed off on the Sunday afternoon talent shows, and ran the parking lot. Gilley was the marquee, the house band leader, and — by the late 1970s — a country radio fixture whose covers of "City Lights" and "Don't the Girls All Get Prettier at Closing Time" had hit number one.

"Sherwood Cryer made Gilley's. Mickey was the singer on the sign. The place was Sherwood's. He would chase you out of the parking lot if he didn't like your boots." — Aaron Latham, Texas Monthly (2018)

The club's regulars were Houston-area refinery workers, oilfield crews, and local rodeo people. Saturday nights would draw four thousand. The bandstand seated a full country act; the dance floor was big enough to two-step a hundred couples without crowding; the bull pit was off to one side; the bar ran the length of one wall.

The Latham Esquire piece named the place

Aaron Latham's 1978 Esquire article — "The Ballad of the Urban Cowboy" — is what made Gilley's nationally legible (see The Latham Source Article). Before the article, Gilley's was a regional bar; after the article, it was a documented social phenomenon, and Paramount optioned it. The picture used the actual location as the location, shooting interiors at Gilley's between July and October 1979 with the bar staying open for portions of the shoot.

"We didn't dress the place. We didn't add anything. We just turned the lights down a little and shot what was there. The place was already a movie." — Reynaldo Villalobos, American Cinematographer (1980)

The MC, the bull-pit operators, the bandstand setup, the bar's long line, the exit door Sissy walks out of — all of it is the actual Gilley's. Mickey Gilley plays himself; Sherwood Cryer plays himself in a small bit; many of the bar customers in the wide shots are Gilley's regulars who had been drinking there for years.

Gilley's was the visible face of the country-pop crossover

The cultural moment Latham's piece named was the country-pop crossover of the late 1970s. Gilley's — Houston-suburb, refinery-and-rodeo, country-radio-friendly — was its physical embodiment. The picture released the moment outward: Western wear sales spiked, country radio market share grew, mechanical bulls turned up in suburban bars from Cincinnati to Long Island. Gilley's became a destination for tourists wearing their newly purchased boots.

"Gilley's was the world's biggest honky-tonk for ten years. Then it was a tourist trap for five. Then it burned down. That's a Texas career." — Mickey Gilley, Houston Chronicle (2008) (paywalled)

The success of the picture also strained the partnership. Gilley sued Cryer in 1988 over the bar's deteriorating condition and Cryer's management; the partnership dissolved in 1989. The bar closed that year and burned down in 1990 in a fire of disputed origin. The lot at 4500 Spencer Highway sat empty for years.

The afterlife is licensing

Mickey Gilley reopened Gilley's as a licensed venue in Branson, Missouri in 1991, and the brand was franchised to Las Vegas, Dallas, and other locations through the 1990s and 2000s. None of the licensed venues have the same scale or culture; they are themed bars trading on the picture's afterlife. The original Pasadena Gilley's exists only in the picture and in archival photographs.

"Walking into Gilley's the first night Bud walks in — that long dolly shot down the bar — that's the closest thing American film has to a documentary record of the place. The picture is the only Gilley's a lot of people will ever see." — John Bloom (Joe Bob Briggs), Texas Monthly (2018)

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